Triumph GT6 1966-1974

GT6’s are rather more of a purist’s car, than a Spitfire. In it’s time, it was called a "Poor Mans E-Type" because of the obvious resemblance. It is a far faster car than it’s Spitfire sibling, is much rarer (less than 50,000 were ever built) and for these reasons joins the Mercedes Gullwing in being one of the few Coupes that are more expensive than it’s Convertible version. Prices range from 1800 for a running car, through 3500-5000 for a really good, faultless example upto silly 8000-10000+ prices for an immaculately restored or original car.

Like the Spitfire, there are two 'groups' of GT6’s. The Early GT6’s (1966-1970) and the Later GT6’s (1970-1973). The main reasons for buying are probably whichever model you feel looks & drives ‘right’ If the car is to be your only transport, then you are probably better off getting a later car as they offer more creature-comforts and have a wider parts availability than the earlier cars. The later cars seemed to accept the styling changes better than the Spitfires do and so there is very little to choose from in the looks department.
Again like the Spitfire, the later cars are probably better as they have more modern interiors, better handing and parts are easier to come by. However, the difference is less than between late Spitfires and the much sparser interior of the earlier versions. It all boils down to what you prefer. Generally speaking though, unless you have another everyday transport (and really like the look of the earlier cars), the later cars’ changes make them better. Handling improvements (Rotaflex and then Swing Spring arrangement) make them sharper on the limit and with a 100bhp-plus straight six under the bonnet, this is a lot more comforting than with the Spitfire.

Gearboxes tend to be the GT6's Achilles heel, they do give out sooner or later. Gone are the days when gears could be replaced cost-effectively, the only real solution is to have a replacement fitted. Costing around 200UKP, these aren't as bad as you may imagine. However don't forget labour-time, if you can't do the job yourself
Regardless of the model you choose, when you buy a GT6 go for the best bodywork you can find. The mechanicals are all easily available and better still, easy to work on for the novice mechanic. Almost all body panels are being remanufactured, but some earlier cars panels are more difficult to come across.   All bodyshells for all GT6's  models are not available, you will have to fabricate repairs yourself. Nor are the rear tailgates on early GT6’s (although later one's will fit, but be of course incorrect). Panel interchangeability is quite high with the Spitfire, on everything but these.

Another rust spot which is a pain is where the roof joins the windscreen surround. Check this carefully as, although nothing to do with structure, it is a pig to rectify as both the roof and windscreen surrounds are no longer available. Check also for panel alignment, even on "restored" cars. Badly fitting doors and bonnet can indicate body-sag. This is usually caused by welding sills to a poorly-braced car. Sills should always be fitted with the doors in situ or the gaps braced exactly. Water also tends to congregate underneath the rear tailgate opening. As this can lead to rusting, check carefully here as it is the car's shell (non-replaceable) that will rust as well as the tailgate (replaceable, but scarce). Also check under the spare tyre, as dampness can hide there too.
Lift the bonnet and check the chassis, especially the crossmembers which run underneath the bulkhead, from the centre to the sills. Check also the forward chassis for signs of buckling or welding - a sign that the car has been in a head-on collision. Whilst the bonnet is open, check the underneath of the front wings, for any signs of filler etc. Also examine the front headlight mounts and the panels surrounding them as these tend to be the first to rust. Repair panels are all available though, but time-consuming to fit & paint.

The rest is pretty-much about common sense. If the seller tells you their car is "restored" ask for proof, by way of photographs or bills etc. No matter how nice the seller appears, do not accept what they tell you on face value. Of course, if you are getting a bargain, then you are less worried, but always keep in mind the cost of replacing / rebuilding whatever appears defective and always assume the worst, unless proven otherwise. Most club members are honest people and genuine. I would always recommend buying through a club network (see club links page) as you can be pretty sure that the previous owner looked after the car fairly well.